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The culture of fashion: Alaïa for foodies and bibliophiles
Just after New Year I treated myself to a banana bread and coffee date at the new Violet Cakes cafe in the New Bond Street Alaïa store. Food and fashion have been forging an alliance for some time and...
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The Toscani effect
Farewell Oliviero Toscani, a brilliant photographer and art director who changed the world through his audacious activism dressed as fashion advertising. I became aware of him in the 1980s via his...
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The aspirational familiarity of Lemaire and Auralee AW25
While the major fashion brands have seemingly gone nuts with their pricing, it makes sense that a certain demographic has shifted attention to Lemaire and Auralee. Both just showed at the menswear...
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Oh, Dior! Kim Jones is leaving, is Maria G-C next?
It’s official. After weeks of speculation, it’s been confirmed that Kim Jones is leaving Dior menswear after seven years. I’ve really liked most of what Kim has done at LVMH (apart from Fendi –...
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Japanese convenience chain FamilyMart is getting a fashion glow-up
The vogue for hypebeast grocers (documented in my aw24 trend report) continues. News just in: Japanese streetwear wonderkid Nigo has been named creative director for convenience store chain...
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Calvin Klein: Nostalgia or Now?
Lots of people have been in my DMs asking for my thoughts on the Calvin Klein Collection reboot. Lies! One person asked, but I’m here to share my two cents anyway. This show was the most highly...
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On my radar: sloppy styling at Margaret Howell SS25
We’ve had our first burst of spring-like sunshine this week, so it feels good to be looking at the SS25 look books with “yes, I can wear this soon” eyes. As usual, I head straight to Margaret Howell;...
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The culture of fashion: how the catwalk soundtrack got its groove
Models! Clothes! Music! Fashion show soundtracks are increasingly part of shaping a brand’s identity. And in the digital era they’re about to become even more important… The year was 2017. Kim Jones...
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Sweater girls at Hermès AW25
So many easy styling ideas to steal from Hermès AW25. There were a lot more skin-exposing looks than usual, but I still prefer the more ‘garconne’ vibe. It’s all about the sweater-girl styling for me;...
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Quote of the day: Jean Touitou on Agnès b
“I was playing my electric guitar in [Agnès b’s] studio above the store one evening. I remember seeing her come back from dinner, put a black round-neck sweatshirt on a desk, grab a pair of scissors...
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